Central and East Galapagos Islands with G Adventures

February 11-18 2023

by Sandra Romanauskas, Experience More Travel

DAY 1: Arrival / Santa Cruz Island

I arrived in Ecuador on Feb 3rd and have spent the past week exploring the beautiful mainland (more on THAT amazing trip in a future blog post). On this early Saturday morning I leave mainland Ecuador behind for the Main Event of this trip - Galapagos Islands.

Photo: airport departures screen

Photo: Map of upcoming Galapagos cruise

I was met at the Baltra airport by Omar, the Chief Experience Officer for this tour (as G Adventures likes to call its guides).

G Adventures’ CEOs are the backbone of the company, leading us travellers to adventures and helping us connect with our world. Over the week to come, Omar gave us great insight into culture of Galapagos , a bunch of fun facts and great information along the way. Not to mention many many laughs and good times. We couldn't have asked for a better guide.

I was the first of our group of 16 to arrive! Once we had all gathered we headed off to visit the highlands of Santa Cruz Island, and a special opportunity to view the islands’ most famous reptile: the giant tortoises in their wild habitat. What a privilege to see an endangered species roving in this lush environment!

Photo: Baltra Airport arrival sign; tea cup in airport lounge

Photo: El Chato Ranch sign

Photos: Sandra in Tortoise shell; Sandra posing with giant tortoise

A visit to the Fausto Llerena Breeding Center and Charles Darwin Research Station followed, to learn firsthand of the conservation and research efforts in the islands. There, we saw several subspecies of adult tortoises, lots of hatchlings, and learned of the repatriation programs that are saving several subspecies of tortoises and iguanas from extinction.

Photos: Research centre sign; tortoises in pool

Photo: baby tortoises in enclosure.

In the late afternoon we boarded our home for the week and settled into our week appointed cabins. I had elected the single cabin - all this space just for ME!

Photos: My single cabin (#10); sunset view from ship

A note on Solo travel with G Adventures: G believes single travelers should not have to pay more to travel so their group trips are designed for shared accommodation and do not involve a single supplement. Single travellers joining group trips are paired in twin or multi-share accommodation with someone of the same sex for the duration of the trip. Some of our Independent trips are designed differently and single travellers on these itineraries must pay the single trip price

Day 2: Española Island: Gardner Bay / Punta Suárez

Española Island is one of the oldest in the archipelago, estimated to be between 4 and 4.5 million years old! It is uninhabited (by people that is...).

It is the only island where you can find the magnificent Galapagos Waved Albatross. The colony comes home to Espanola each year between April and December to nest on the cliffs... so looks like I will have to plan a return visit!

This morning started with an 8:00 'Wet Landing' at Gardner Bay. We explored this lovely white coral sand beach amongst a busy sea lion colony and saw evidence of nesting sea turtles. Back on board by 9:30, there was time for a quick snack break (have I mentioned how well fed we were!) and we were off again for our first experience snorkeling off the dinghies. Seafood BBQ awaited us at noon, and then the (most welcome) 'mandatory nap' :-)

Later that afternoon, a 'Dry Landing' and exploration of the Punta Suárez visitor site, on the north-western corner of the island. Here, birds were everywhere—underfoot, on the trail, overhead, diving into the sea, taking off from cliffs, sitting quietly, engaging in ritual mating dances or hatching eggs. We followed a coastal trail through a maze of volcanic boulders to a clifftop plateau for wonderful views of the ocean and the Punta Suarez Blowhole.

Photo: Sunday agenda

Photos: Nazca Booby; Sally Lightfoot Crab

Photos: 'wet' landing in action; sea lions on sandy beach; Punt Suarez Blowhole

Photos: Marine iguana; blue footed boobies; sea lion on rock.

Cocktails, evening briefing, and a delicious dinner followed.

Photos: Chicken and veggie skewers; chocolate cake

Interesting fact: To cope with the amount of salt they consume while grazing in the ocean, marine iguanas have a specially adapted gland that removes salt from their bodies. They then forcefully expel the salt out of their nostrils in a sneeze-like fashion.

DAY 3: San Cristobal Island

The day started with a Wet Landing and a power hike along a trail on Punta Pitt that winds up through eroded volcanic tuff formations to a plateau for a spectacular view of the island, and Islote Pitt. Along the trail were endemic plants and wildlife unique to San Cristobal, such as the San Cristobal mockingbird and the San Cristobal lava lizard. All three boobies (blue-footed, red-footed and Nazca) were in attendance. The first half of the walk was pretty wet as the rain poured down, but before long the skies cleared, and the sun came out!

Late morning snorkeling, lunch and 'mandatory nap' before a dinghy ride around Cathedral rock and the afternoon Wet Landing, and some beach time!

Photos (L to R):Day's agenda; Sandra in rainy hike.

Photos: Punta Pitt trail (x2); Punta Pitt landing

Photo: Sandra at beach time with Kicker Rock in background.

The day's activities ended with visit to the ship's bridge, and a navigation around the spectacular Kicker Rock. This striking rock formation is located a couple hours off the western shore of San Cristobal. Jutting out of the water, the rocks stand vertically at hundreds of feet above the ocean divided by a small channel.

Cocktails, briefing and dinner, and then off to bed... zzzzzz.

Photos: View off back of Reina Silvia where dinghies are carried; boat ride to see Cathedral rock.

Photos: Cathedral Rock (HUGE!); Great frame for Kicker Rock as seen from the dinghies; Kicker rock from the bow.

DAY 4: Santa Fe / South Plaza

Today, we spent time visiting fascinating Santa Fé, home to a small population of very large land iguanas. A hike towards the cliffs along the island's northern shore gave us a great view of the forest of giant prickly pear cactus (Opuntia).

Before lunch there was time for kayaking or snorkeling.

After lunch (and mandatory nap;-) ), some in our group visited the small island of South Plaza for a walk through a cactus forest. It was SUCH a hot day and the idea of another walk in the blazing sun did not appeal so I opted for a dinghy ride instead.

Photos: map of Isla Plaza Sur; Plan for Tuesday/Day 4

Photos: Hike on Santa Fe Island; Iguana; Iguana

Photos: Dinghy ride back after morning hike; Sandra on afternoon Dinghy ride; One of the amazing crew members

Photos: Sunset view from sundeck; Sundeck.

DAY 5 Genovesa Island

Extra early start today as we had three activities before lunch!

Photo: day's agenda

First, a visit to the white-sand coral beach of Darwin Bay, winding through mangroves filled with land and marine birds. So many birds! Further down the path, tidal pools with sea lions swimming playfully.

Photos: One of the several types of Darwin finches; Gull (Swallowtail I believe)

Photos: Nazca Booby; Red-footed Booby

Photo: Sea-lions playing at water's edge.

Back to the ship for a quick change of attire, and then snorkeling in the sunken caldera to see large schools of tropical fish swarming near the vertical walls, as well as manta rays, white-spotted eagle rays, sea lions, and hammerhead sharks. Back on board, and off kayaking we went!

In the afternoon, a visit to El Barranco (also known as Prince Phillip’s Steps), which is a steep, rocky path that leads up to a high cliff-face, to look for red-footed boobies, short-eared owls, Nazca Boobies, storm petrels, Galapagos swallows, and Galapagos doves, and of course enjoy the magnificent views.

Photos: Afternoon landing site; Booby keeping baby cool; Frigate bird

Photos: Sandra enjoying the view!

DAY 6: Santiago / Bartolomé

Early morning visit to Sullivan Bay on Santiago Island to see one of its star natural attractions – striking and fascinating giant lava formations. Very few plants have managed to survive on this island due to its harsh environment and relatively new lava flow.

Photos: Thursday's (day 6) Agenda; Santiago Island lava formations

Photos: Sandra playing in a crevasse!

Time to gear up for snorkeling and cool off in the shallow waters of the bay. Turtles, rays, penguins, friendly sea lions, and So Many Fish!

Photo: Barbecue lunch on deck

Photo: Bit of afternoon meditation and yoga while the rest of the group went for a second round of snorkeling

Afternoon hike to Bartolomé's summit for a stronger perspective of the islands' not-too-distant volcanic origins, and a panoramic view. This island is the most visited and most photographed island in Galapagos; 600 Meters and 374 steps later I could see why...

Photos: Landing for summit; views on the way up.

Photos: Views from the summit

Photo: View from the summit

Photos: Sunset view on descent; Pinnacle rock

DAYS 7 & 8

Rabida is a “small red island,” the colour of the volcanic cinders. The red beach was well populated with sea lions and pups! Just behind the beach, in a brackish lagoon, were migratory shore and wading birds, and Greater Flamingos (flamingos need the presence of a dozen or two other flamingos to stimulate their highly entertaining mating ritual).

Photo: Friday's (Day 7) Agenda

Photo: View of lagoon from above

Photos: Sandra looking at view; marine iguana; sea lion pup in surf

Back on board after our walk, some went kayaking while I rested up for snorkeling... today we got to snorkel both before AND after lunch.

The afternoon snorkeling one was one of THE most magical experiences, with sea turtles and penguins up close and personal. I wish I had photos to show, but my camera is not waterproof.

Photo: View of brackish lagoon from ship (if you look closely you will see the flamingoes on the far shore!)

Tonight was our last night on the ship and then it was back to Baltra Island Airport. It was time to bid farewell to Galapagos, Omar, and my fellow travellers, and begin the trek home.

Photos: Birds flying overhead; sunset view from Reina Silvia'

My Guayaquil hotel room view and a rainy walk along the Malecon was not quite the same as my Reina Silvia view and snorkeling with the turtles and sealions.