Wilderness and Ancient Cultures - My Voyage from Iceland to Canada with Hurtigruten Expeditions
by Sandra Romanauskas, Experience More Travel
Expedition cruising is a very different experience than the more traditional cruise holiday. Exploration and education, not entertainment, are at it's heart.
In September 2022, I joined a group of fellow travel advisors as we set for
12 nights aboard MS Fridtjof Nansen traveling
from Iceland to the wilds of Greenland and Canada, via the Labrador and
Newfoundland Coasts.
September 1st: Montreal YUL
Time to Travel!
This evening we boarded Air Canada flight to Montreal and then the overnight flight to Reykjavik.
September 2nd: Reykjavik KEF
Photo: First views of a surreal landscape!
After an uneventful flight (the best kind!) we made our way
aboard very efficient FlyBus, secured luggage at a bus station locker, and headed
off for breakfast.
Then… can you think of a better way to shake off the jetlag of an overnight flight while waiting for hotel check-in than a soak in a thermal spa 'where the sea meets the sky'? The Sky Lagoon is a little slice of heaven, complete with the Ritual, a unique seven-step experience, just minutes from Reykjavik city center. Electric scooter sharing service is a fun budget friendly way to get around!
Finally, Home Sweet Home for the next 3 nights Reykjavik4You Apartments.
Photo above: Sky Lagoon (courtesy Skylagoon.com)
Photos below: Sandra on a rental scooter in Reykjavik, Apartment in Reykjavik, view from apartmentalcony.
September 3rd: Reykjavik
Today was all about exploring the sights, shops
and tastes of Reykjavik.
Photos (above): Skólavörðustígur Street, aka Reykjavik Rainbow Street, Zebra Mural, Hallgrimskirkja church with statue of Leif Erikson.
Photos(above): Cat on water fountain, Messinn restaurant table, FlyOver Iceland (this is NOT to be missed! 'Hang suspended, feet dangling before a 20 m spherical screen while the film whisks you on an exhilarating journey across Iceland')
Photos (above): Croissants in bakery window, Cod with potatoes and apples in a curry cream sauce, Cream based meat and vegetable soup in a sourdough bread bowl.
Food is one of the best ways to explore a new place!
September 4th: Golden Circle
Water water everywhere!
Today we joined a small group tour (19 of us in a minivan) of Iceland's Golden Circle: "Fill your day exploring the famous Golden Circle in a small group setting with some added flair. Visit the unmissable Thingvellir National Park, Gullfoss Waterfall, and Geysir Hot Springs. We'll also stop at off-the-beaten-track spots like Faxi Waterfall and Hveragerði, a geothermal town in Southwest Iceland. You'll get a real feel for the Land of Fire and Ice in just one day" the tour description promised... and did it ever deliver!
Photos: Gullfoss Waterfall; Sandra in front of Geyser Hot springs, waiting for eruption; Geyser eruption.
Photos:: Thingvellir National Park.; Icelandic meat soup (lamb) with AH-mazing black (sweet) rye bread at Cafe Loki; Sunset view out our apartment back door.
September 5th: Welcome onboard!
We had a
last walk around our neighbourhood, bid farewell to our little home away from
home, and made our way to the dock. After boarding and attending the mandatory
safety briefing, we set sail and left Reykjavik behind us.
Night one on MS Fridtjof Nansen and Mother Nature did not disappoint! No need to worry about missing the Northern Lights while you sleep, the Bridge keeps a keen eye out, and you gave the option to permit PA announcements to your room. Wake-up call at 12:30 am? Yes please!!
Photos: Fridtjof Nansen; our cabin;farewell Reykjavik - glass of wine and view.
Photos: Northern Lights; map of cruise route.
September 6th: At Sea
As we
crossed the Denmark Strait, from Iceland to Greenland, we had plenty to do
onboard.
Many were
outside enjoying the sun and watching for wildlife, and there was a morning session
to hear about the world’s largest (UNDER sea) waterfall, as well as an afternoon
discovery session to learn about NASA Cloud
Observation and meteorology. All attended a mandatory review of
important guidelines from AECO, the Association of Arctic Expedition Cruise
Operators, to learn how we can protect wildlife habitats, keep a safe distance
from animals, and visit indigenous Arctic communities in a dignified and
respectful way.
Between and after the many sessions there is still lots to do! Maybe a massage, facial, or sauna with a great view. Workout in the modern gym or get some fresh air on the running track and outdoor gym, in the hot tubs or infinity pool. . Perhaps pick up a souvenir in the shop, grab a milkshake in "Fred's", chat with the Expedition staff, play a game, or just settle into a sofa in the lounge and watching the rhythmic ocean waves roll by outside.
Photos: AECO Guidelines slide; Shipboard Sauna; view of Pool Deck.
Photos: Discovery session (NASA Cloud Observation); Explorer Lounge; Milkshake.
September 7th: Skjoldungen
What a day!
We started off the morning sailing through the Southern Skjoldungen Fjord,
where we saw waterfalls, glaciers and avalanches on either side of the passage.
First activity of the day was in Morke Sound, where we cruised with our
expedition boats to the marine-terminating ice cliff of the Thrym Glacier and
hiked to a land-terminating glacier.
And how could
you say no to the opportunity for a Polar Plunge?
We sailed out the Northern Skjoldungen Fjord into the fog - but before our view was obscured we were treated to a sighting of a pod of Orcas.
Photos (credit to Helgi - Hurtigruten): Skjoldungen Iceberg; Skjoldungen Mountains; Skjoldungen - Orca
Photos: Skjoldungen - Landing site (and all the emergency gear that comes ashore for EVERY landing); flower on rocky beach; Sandra on rocky beach
Photos: Sandra in polar plunge (yes it was COLD!!!); Polar Plunge certificate; slide show - review of day's cruise itinerary.
September 8th: Prince Christian Sund
Although the
weather was forecasted to be foggy all morning, the fog lifted earlier than
expected and we had a blue-sky day, with the sun beating down on us. Expedition
boats were launched and we cruised towards the glacier in the Kangerdluk fjord,
then back towards Prins Christian Sund towards the west. We passed icebergs,
glaciers, waterfalls, mountains and even spotted a bearded seal.
"The transit through the Sound is
one of this voyage’s highlights. Connecting the Labrador Sea with the Irminger
Seat, Prince Christian Sound or “Prins Christian Sund” in Danish is named after
Prince (later King) Christian VII (1749-1808). 100 km (60 miles ), long and at
times just 500 m (1500 ft) wide, this majestic and spectacular fiord throws you
back into a Viking era – flanked by soaring snow-topped mountains, rock-strewn
cliffs and rolling hills, it is as if time has stood still and one easily
forgets that this is the 21st century. As you marvel at the sheer size of the
mountains that surround you, with the Arctic waters lapping deceptively at the
hull, revel in the silence enveloping you. Icebergs float serenely by, carrying
with them the ages of time. Be sure to wear warm clothing as this is one
spectacle that you do not want to miss."
And what a spectacle it was!
Photos: Zodiac cruisers getting ready for us passengers; Sandra on Zodiac enjoying another GLORIOUS day in Greenland!!
Photos (credit Helgi - Hurtigruten): Iceberg and Zodiac boat; Prince Christian Sund - Zodiak boats cruising near glacier.
Photo: Fog rolls in as we leave the sound and head for the Labrador Sea
September 9th: At Sea
The Labrador
Sea was extremely calm today and the glassy waters provided us with perfect
wildlife spotting conditions, including a pod of pilot whales. Lots of
activities to choose from : lectures on seabirds, Fridtjof Nansen and glaciers,
as well as sessions on ocean currents, Greenlandic artefacts and clouds.
I meditated to whale sounds, walked the outdoor track, and attended the mandatory polar bear safety briefing(!) in prep for our landings in Torngat National Park.
Photos: Meditative Mind swimming fish screen; Bears in the Torngats screen; calm sea
A NOTE ON FOOD
It’s important to know that food is not available 24/7 on expedition cruises like it can be on more mass market cruises; no rolling out of bed at 10 am and expecting the buffet to be open, and no pizza or what have you for midnight munchies. The food is delicious, the buffets (breakfast and lunch ) are varied and change daily. Dinner (a la carte) is 3-4 courses and changes nightly, always with a meat option/ seafood option / vegetarian option. Courses are beautifully plated and balanced portion sized (so you can have all 4 courses and not feel too full lol).
You be very well fed, but food is not the focus and expedition comes first.
Beer and red and white wine are available with lunch and dinner (the varieties of each changes daily so you are not stuck with the same 'house' red or white for the entire journey) and the waiters circulate often with the bottles. Each day there is also a featured cocktail for 5 euros, and there is a drink package available (although many would be hard pressed to get value - too busy to spend time at the bar lol)
Meals are at set times (B 7-9 / L 12-2 / D 6-8:30) and operates on a flexible dining time. Guests are asked to make reservations for each meal (B L & D) in the main dining room Aune. Great to have the day-to-day flexibility. Note that the alternate dining room Fredheim, which is open from 12-8 or so most days, is a great casual option for a late lunch, early dinner or midafternoon milkshake craving :-)
Photos (evening plated): Beet terrine; Beef Wellington; lemon tart
Photos (Fredheim): waffles, shrimp tacos; Sandra with cocktail of the day.
Photos: Buffet x 3
Photos; Buffet; Aune dining room; Aune table with view.
September 10th: Saglek Bay
After
crossing the Labrador Sea, we arrived in the Torngat Mountains National Park! The morning was busy with lectures about Newfoundland and Labrador, but the
main highlight of the day was sailing through the Saglek Fjord and spotting our
first polar bear! As we sailed on deeper into the fjord, we spotted several
more polar bears, including a mother and two cubs walking along the coastline.
Once we arrived in North Arm fjord, it was time for scenic cruising, landing and hiking to a waterfall.
Photos (Credit: Helgi-Hurtigruten):Brown bear; Polar bears.
Photos; Map showing ship's location; Zodiac landing with ship in background; (credit Helgi-Hurtigruten) berries with waterfall in background.
Photos: hikers, 'An Inuit Homeland' poster.
11 September: Nachvak Fjord
We spent the day exploring the Nachvak Fjord, ‘nachvak’ means ‘to find’, because you can find everything there – including a swimming caribou and two polar bears as the sun set over the mountains.
This morning was
my turn to kayak. All I can say is WOW. Can this trip get any better!?
Photos: Kayakers in Nachvak Fjord; group of kayakers.
Photos: Polar bear mother and cub (courtesy Hurtigruten-Helgi); sunset from Zodiac
12 September: Ramah Bay
The sun was
shining again for us today, and we had a beautiful day at Ramah Bay. Everyone
was able to visit the remains of the church and sod houses in the bay, and some
of us took a ‘refreshing’ dip in the sea and waterfall ;-) I stayed on land
today but some chose to kayak and paddle board along the rocky coastline.
Photos: Zodiac going for landing; (photo credit next 2 photos: Helgi - Hurtigruten) Ramah Bay Guard overlooking landing; kayakers
Photos: (photo credit next 2 photos: Helgi - Hurtigruten) Polar plunge; Ramah Bay stones.
Photos: Sandra under Ramah Bay Waterfall; dinner view (minke whales were out there!)
September 13th: Hebron
Today was our last day in Torngat National Park, and a classic example of the flexibility of the Expedition experience. We started the day with visit to Hebron, the site of a preserved 19th century German Moravian mission. Eager for a hike and some insight into the fascinating history and culture of this Inuit heartland, we set off for land in our zodiacs and began to explore with the Expedition Team, under the protective ‘umbrella’ of professionally trained bear guards who keep a watchful eye on our surroundings. Not 30 minutes into our landing our leader got the radio call. Five (5!!) polar bears heading in the direction of our landing site. The hike was over, we were unceremoniously marched back down the hill and evacuated from the site. Safety first! Plan B (or are we up to E lolol).
Later than day we cruised around the area, where we saw polar bears and a minke whale carcass, and once the (bears had cleared out) returned to Hebron to finish our visit.
Photos above: Hebron Landscape. Photos below: Hebron evacuation; Hebron church
September 14th: At Sea
This foggy day at sea was well-timed, as it gave everyone the opportunity to recharge for the packed days to come. Lots to do: learn about navigation, Vikings in the North Atlantic, plankton and Inuit relocation, and visit the bridge and meet the officer, a few laps of deck 11 an da visit to the sauna were welcome. The housekeeping staff entertained with towel animal creation :-)
In the evening, a charity auction raised around €2,000 for the Hurtigruten
Foundation!
Today's sailing was not as smooth as the past
few days lol. Ginger tablets and ginger tea were our friends, little baggies
were hung by the elevators JUST in case... and Moscow Mule (featuring ginger
beer) was even the cocktail of the day.
Photos: Moscow Mule; fitness deck 11; Charity auction (Photo courtesy Hurtigruten/Helgi)
September 15th: Battle Harbour
Our luck with the sun ended here in Battle Harbour, NL (not all days can be glorious and sunny, especially on an expedition) but this allowed us to experience the true Viking rain. We had a great day exploring Battle Harbour and Great Caribou Island. I was off on a hike exploring the surrounding hills, but some were lucky enough to see several humpback whales feeding in the bay, just meters from the shore!
Photos (L to R m top to bottom): Battle Harbour walking; Sandra with misty view; Battle Harbour view; (Bottom row Courtesy Hurtigruten / Helgi) Battle Harbour boat; Battle Harbour museum; Battel; Harbour whales off shore.
September 16th: L’anse aux Meadoux
Our last day
aboard was spent at L’anse aux Meadoux, on the northernmost tip of
Newfoundland. This was a Norse settlement dating to approximately 1,000 years
ago, and it was fascinating to spend this rainy day exploring this
archaeological site.
L'Anse aux Meadows Photos L to R, top to bottom (Courtesy Hurtigruten - Helgi): Guide; House; Museum; Vestiges; Vikings statues; Fire Guide.
September 17th: St John’s
This morning
we sailed into St John’s Harbour under sunny skies. After disembarking we walked
the short distance to the ALT, our hotel for the night, checked in, and set out
to explore.
Photos (L to R, top to bottom): Ship entering St John's Harbour; view from hotel room of ship; Signal Hill views and hike
September 18th: Home!
Today, there was time for a morning stroll before making our way to the airport for the flight home.
Photos: St John's city street; church; view from plane